Siding is a large group of facade finishing materials, the name of which comes from a wooden board fixed on the wall in a certain way. The principle of house siding was borrowed from the roof when the top element hangs over the bottom. Due to this, the main materials were protected from weathering, burning out in the sun, and most importantly - from getting wet. Rainwater flowed through the panels without getting inward to the wall. Now siding is used in curtain walls and for home insulation.
This is what a house covered with classic siding looks like in the USA - in its historic homeland
There are several types of materials that can be attributed to this category:
Classic wooden board for the facade, which is mounted overlapping one another. Now this method of plating is rarely used, and more often they use imitation in the form of profiled wooden lining to separate the facade - the “American”.
Modern wooden siding. Panels are not an array, but pressed wood fibers bonded with astringent resins. The structure resembles a dense fiberboard, a protective coating - several layers of paint.
Wood-polymer composites. Produce companies that specialize in the production of decking from the WPC. The composition is clear from the name, the panel is made profiled with a thorn-groove or “lock” connection. It has the largest thickness among modern siding options - over 10 mm, taking into account internal stiffeners. One of the most durable options, but is more expensive than some types of natural wood siding.
One of the samples of the profile of modern wood-polymer siding
Cement siding for covering the house. Composite material, but as a binder are not polymers, and cement. The filler in this case are cellulose fibers, which reinforce the panel and ensure its fracture strength. It also has a large thickness - 8 mm.
It is possible to sheathe the house with metal siding. Release aluminum and steel. In the second case, it is a galvanized cold-rolled profiled sheet with a decorative polymer coating or painting. Thickness ranges from 0. 5-2 mm.
Usually siding is “flat”, but the metal profile can imitate a log
Vinyl siding for house trim. The most popular material "economy class" for the facade. Available in two use cases - for the basement or for the facade.
Ground floor siding is more often made under brick or stone
Note. Basement panels produce more "thick." They often sheathe the facade when they want to make the facing more resistant to mechanical damage or to create the illusion of facing with a stone.
If we talk about mass demand, many tend to sheathe the house with vinyl siding. It has an excellent combination of advantages: low price and good decorative properties, simple installation and maintenance of the surface, low weight and high resistance to climatic factors.
In second place is wooden siding from an array, if in this category both the board and the paneling "American" in all its modifications are counted. Of course, thanks to a simple installation technology, profiled panels are often used. This is a traditional type of siding for a wooden house or cottage in an ecologically clean area.
This is what the “American” profile looks like. and repair, composite panels will be the best choice. Especially if there is a KDP terrace near the house. They are well tolerated by temperature, high humidity, and resistant to adverse factors, even in a large city or close to the road.
House cladding with metal siding is rare. Aluminum profile badly withstands mechanical stress, which is inevitable for low-rise buildings. Steel panels are durable, but their price is higher than that of vinyl, and decorative features are the same. Durability is determined by the thickness of the sheet and the properties of the protective and decorative coating. From the combination of these factors depends on the price.
Cement siding is used if fire resistance of finish is in the first place. And this is probably the only advantage of the material. Heavy, rather fragile during transportation (despite reinforcement) and difficult to install - it loses in popularity to other species.
Cement siding can replicate the texture of wood, but it is not so easy to lay.
The cost per square meter depends not only on the material. Many factors have a greater influence on price. And one of them is the manufacturer and the country.Even vinyl siding has a range of prices from 150 rubles. up to 600 rubles for 1 m2.
With wood paneling, it is even more difficult - for example, pine and larch differ in price several times, and there are more expensive types of wood. Plus a factory finish that improves resistance to high humidity, but also significantly increases the cost of the board. For example, domestic larch costs from 300 rubles. per 1 m2, heat treatment of wood from a domestic manufacturer raises the cost by 2-3 times, and imported heat-treated board costs 4-5 times more expensive than ordinary wooden siding.
Obviously about the choice of siding on video:
There are two simple methods calculation: by area and the number of panels.
Calculate the areas of the planes to be sewn. For convenience of calculation, a surface with a complex geometry is “broken” into simple shapes.
From the amount received, the areas of window and door openings are subtracted.
Multiply the result by a correction factor that takes into account waste for trimming. For simple planes, it is assumed to be 1. 07-1. 1, for complex ones - 1. 15.
Divided into a useful (not common!) Area of one panel.
Round the result to a whole number, and get the number of siding panels to be installed with a margin.
Clearly calculations on the video:
The second method is convenient only for "simple shapes" the planes of the facade or basement. In this case, each next plane is calculated with a correction for the possible use of trimming from the previous one. The calculation method for a “blank” wall is as follows:
Measure the height of the wall, divide it by the useful height of the panel. Round up to a whole number.
They measure the length of the wall, divided by the length of the panel. If after a comma it turns out 5 or more are rounded up, less than 5 - into a smaller one.
The results obtained are multiplied.
When rounded up, this will be the required number of siding panels. If the second figure is rounded down, then calculate how much it will take to purchase siding to increase each strip in length.
When determining the number of strips for walls with openings, the planes between the corners and borders of the openings are calculated separately from the “blind” sections.
Calculation of additional profiles is carried out for each species individually, depending on the size of the areas where they are used.
The most common types of additional profiles
Cladding using a batten does not require leveling the surface to " perfect "state. But this does not mean that the walls do not need to be prepared for the work. Especially, when siding is only a part of general measures for the installation of a curtain wall with insulation.
Therefore, it is necessary to clean the surface of old finishing materials, remove the hinged elements of engineering communications, remove signs and lamps, dismantle ebbs and visors. The facade must be completely free.
If the facade is plastered, it must be cleaned of crumbling areas, primed and, if necessary, leveled with mortar.
It is sometimes difficult to clean the old plaster
Brick walls need to be checked for cracks, their nature, to eliminate the causes and repair them .
The walls of a house that has been built a long time ago must be checked for damage by fungus and mosses. This is especially true for the basement, ground floor and visor area on the north side or in the "solid" shadow.
It depends on the scope of work on the preparation of surfaces for cladding whether it is possible to carry out the lining in winter. The covering of a wooden house with metal siding or vinyl and WPC can be carried out in the winter if the house is new. If it is required to carry out "wet" repair work with solutions and liquid compositions - it is impossible.
And of course, it is impossible to install cement siding for painting and wooden in the winter without factory protective treatment with special compounds.
The crate can be made of wooden bars or metal profiles.
A beam is easier to fit, it is easier to attach siding to it, it does not serve as a cold bridge between the cladding and the wall, it does not change the geometry with temperature changes. But the tree does not tolerate high humidity. Therefore, the timber must be seasoned (dry) and treated with an antiseptic.
Installing siding on a wooden crate can be seen:
It is more difficult to work with a metal profile, it has high strength and durability (if it is galvanized). The only operational disadvantage is high thermal conductivity. Therefore, the support brackets must be mounted to the wall through heat-insulating gaskets.
For the installation of the batten and siding:
a set of tools for marking and level control;
hacksaw or wood (depends on siding material and batten);
metal shears to fit the panels (for metal siding);
punch or drill ( depends on the material of the walls and basement);
hammer, pliers, screwdrivers or screwdriver with nozzles for the head of the hardware;
string, chalk for marking;
step ladder, stairs, scaffolding.
Clearly about mounting the metal frame for siding on video:
To have an idea how to properly sheathe a house with siding, it is enough to know the general principles of installation:
Facing takes place according to the principle of filling the profiles with additional profiles.
Mount the crate with a layout step of vertical runs of 250-300 mm.
They make markings for the starting strip, the correct quality of which depends on the quality of the casing.
At first they beat off the attachment line of the reflux. If the entire facade is sheathed around the perimeter, then it should converge “to the point”.
The starting plate securing line is above reflux plus a gap to compensate for thermal expansion.
Installation to the sheathing of the reflux, the starting strip and all the details of the casing takes place according to the general rules:
the fastener must be positioned strictly vertically relative to the batten;
the fastener head should be located in the middle of the perforated hole (except for the top fastening of the corner profiles);
tighten the screws or hammer the nails not completely, but leave a gap between head and the surface of the part about 1 mm.
Assembling the first, carrier strip of the siding
After the starting bar, the corner profiles are fastened, hanging them vertically at the top attachment point. Mounted around the openings near the window slats or J profile. Finish the "framing" of the contour with a finishing strip or J profile.
Installation of the first panel begins with fixing in the lock of the starting plate. Before fixing to the crate, put a temperature gap between the siding end and the corner profile. Its value depends on the time of year when the work is done, and the length of the panel. In winter - about 12 mm to 4 m length, in summer - two times less.
Siding is increased in length or overlapped by 20-25 mm (by cutting the perforation of the bottom panel), or through a connecting profile with an internal gap at each end as in an angular profile.
Every 5-6 rows control the level.
Example of installation of metal siding
When cladding a wooden house with siding, you must take into account the characteristics of materials :
finishing of the facade, as well as interior work, should be started after house shrinkage;
for the sheathing it is advisable to use a wooden bar (aged and treated with an antiseptic );
it is obligatory to treat the surface of the walls with an antiseptic, since after the installation of the skin it is impossible to check the condition of the wood and to carry out timely ilaktiruku affected areas;
for additional protection, you can put a waterproofing membrane;
even if the walls are smooth, and installation of siding without insulation, panels can not be fixed to the wall - for the correct operation of the tree requires a gap that creates a crate.
The cladding of a wooden house
Easy installation of the siding does not exclude care and accuracy during the work. Error when installing the start profile, "overtightened" or improperly installed fasteners in the hole, non-compliance with recommendations on the size of the temperature gap - all this can lead to serious consequences for the skin, which will not be so easy to eliminate.